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VARIJANTA 1 (nemacki)
VARIJANTA 2 (engleski)
What You Will Need
1.
A Cruise Control Stick! These cannot be ordered separately from FIAT for the Stilo, so you’ll have to source one from a breakers yard for example. I got mine as part of a whole column stalk set off eBay so keep a lookout there too. You can get one for an Alfa Romeo 147; it shares the same fixings and connector, but you will have to adapt the steering shroud for it to fit properly. Part Number for this stalk is 735365522.
Tools! A Size 3 Allen key and a pozidrive screwdriver may be all you’ll need, but some may require a 10mm socket setup too.
(Hopefully) A new lower steering shroud, one to fit round the cruise control stalk.
Only go ahead with this if you’re confident; I don’t want to hear any stories of Stilos not starting after this. Also, you'll read in a few pages about Stilo's that aren't wired up; it has come to my attention that other modifications to the Stilo are required for this to work, and as I do not know the extent, all information here is provided as A BASIS WITH NO GUARANTEE that it'll work!
2.
One little problem . . .
Retrofitting cruise control to the Stilo incurs one problem; the LED on the instrument cluster will NEVER illuminate. From what I understand, the cruise control stalk is wired straight to the Engine Node (hence it is not placed on the CAN line at the clock spring). When switched ON, the engine node will place a “Cruise Control is ON” message on the CAN network. What would normally happen is the Body Computer would read this, then place a “Switch Cruise LED ON” signal on the CAN, for the instrument cluster to pick up. However, as none of the Stilos without it haven’t had the option programmed into the Body Computer, it will not know what the “Cruise Control ON” signal is, hence never submitting the “Switch Cruise LED ON” signal. This you’re going to have to accept and live with! The Examiner can switch the light on manually by mimicking the “Switch Cruise LED ON” signal though.
3.
Categorisation of your Stilo
Firstly, these instructions are going to be categorised as follows:
- FULLY PREDISPOSED Stilos
- SEMI PREDISPOSED Stilos
- NON-PREDISPOSED Stilos.
To find out which category your Stilo falls in, you must remove the lower steering shroud, which is held on by 3 Allen screws (Size 3 from what I remember). Then, be on the lookout for this connector (it's hanging to the left ):
On mine , it was taped to another loom. If that connector is there, go to page 4. It was believed that Stilos with ESP are pre-wired, however this is not the whole story, as my mum's 1.6 without ESP was wired too. One could speculate that if the vehicle is pre-03 it's wired, but I do not know for definite. If it is not, venture into the engine department. Remove the battery cover (3 M6 bolts, 2 on later vehicles) and look for a Brown connector, as shown below:
If that is there, go to 4. If not, go to 5.
4.
Installation of the Stalk
With the cowling still removed, offer up the stalk to where it should go, and you’ll see that the front of the mount will be passing over a screw on the column stalk. Remove that screw (see first picture). Now, offer it up again, and it’ll click into the back. Replace the screw at the front. Having had another set of column stalks, I also fitted the screw behind (see second picture); it’s not essential but I wanted it done properly.
All this is self-evident when you look at the car. You might need to remove the top shroud to get access; it’s held on by two Allen screws at the top near the steering wheel.
Picture to Come Soon . . .
Once done, connect the stalk to the connector, clip the connector assembly onto the end of the stalk, and replace everything (with the new shroud). Take the car for a spin and notice that you’ll have Cruise (albeit without the light on the dash!).
5.
Wiring from the Brown Connector
With this, you need to take the wiring from this connector , through the bulkhead, then up to the steering column. The pin-to-pin configuration is as follows:
D4B (Brown Connector) ------> H7 (Cruise Control Stalk)
Pin A02 ------> Pin 1 (Green) RESUME
Pin A03 ------> Pin 6 (Orange/White) SPEED -VE
Pin A04 ------> Pin 5 (Orange/Black) SPEED +VE
Pin A05 ------> Pin 4 (Violet) ON/OFF
D4B Connector
H7 Connector
Remember: The pin out diagrams for D4B are for the non-existent connector that would go into D4A (D4A is the one on your car). Although its damned obvious: the row with the wires is obviously Row A, and there is one pin not-connected (A01), then moving along the next 4 are connected, so A06 to A08 are also not connected.
All you need to do then is connect Pin 2 of the Cruise Control Stalk (Blue) to a +12V feed. There is a dedicated feed from the body computer (Pin 17 of of the brown connector), but you could get a generic 12V feed from the battery or somewhere inside the car with an in-line fuse (the fuse rating on the body computer is 7.5A). Pin 3 on H7 is not connected. If you get stuck, see the wiring diagram on the last page.
Now feed the 4-core wire (2 sets of speaker wire would be ideal, just remember which wire is which!) into the bulkhead. One way suggested is as follows:
1. Remove the drivers side A-pillar and locate the bulkhead grommet.
2. Make a hole just large enough for the wire and feed through.
3. Feed the wire (from the engine bay) under the scuttle plate and into the main engine compartment.
4. Wire up to D4A.
5. Inside the car, allow enough length to go past the body computer and up into the steering area.
6. Replace everything!
I’d also wrap it to other looms using black insulating tape for an original look .
It is also a requirement that the brake pedal and clutch pedal switches need to be modified to allow this to work . . . watch this space! (PM me if you're doing it and the information isn't up yet).
6.
Only read this if you’re sure you can’t find the brown connector in the battery box!
What you’ll need to do for this is to take the feed for the 4 cruise feeds (see last section) directly from the engine node.
Once located, you will see the following connector:
The following wires must be connected then fed to the cruise control stalk (see the previous or next page for stalk wiring):
M10-A (Engine Node) ------> H7 (Cruise Control Stalk)
1.2 16V
Pin 58 ------> Pin 4
Pin 41 ------> Pin 1
Pin 08 ------> Pin 5
Pin 09 ------> Pin 6
1.6 16V
Pin 33 ------> Pin 4
Pin 17 ------> Pin 1
Pin 41 ------> Pin 5
Pin 21 ------> Pin 6
1.8 16V
Pin 57 ------> Pin 4
Pin 23 ------> Pin 1
Pin 53 ------> Pin 5
Pin 31 ------> Pin 6
2.4 20V
Pin 10 ------> Pin 4
Pin 42 ------> Pin 1
Pin 58 ------> Pin 5
Pin 43 ------> Pin 6
1.9 JTD
Pin 53 ------> Pin 4
Pin 55 ------> Pin 1
Pin 56 ------> Pin 5
Pin 57 ------> Pin 6
Then, proceed as with the previous page to get the wire into the car, then hook up the +12V feed etc etc. . .
7.
Just incase you want to use another method for switching (someone on the Italian Stilo forum used a Sony joystick!), here is the wiring information:
Pin 1 = Green = Resume
Pin 2 = Blue = +12V feed
Pin 3 = Not Connected
Pin 4 = Violet = ON/OFF Switch
Pin 5 = Orange/Black = Speed +ve
Pin 6 = Orange/White = Speed -ve
VARIJANTA 2 (engleski)
What You Will Need
1.
A Cruise Control Stick! These cannot be ordered separately from FIAT for the Stilo, so you’ll have to source one from a breakers yard for example. I got mine as part of a whole column stalk set off eBay so keep a lookout there too. You can get one for an Alfa Romeo 147; it shares the same fixings and connector, but you will have to adapt the steering shroud for it to fit properly. Part Number for this stalk is 735365522.
Tools! A Size 3 Allen key and a pozidrive screwdriver may be all you’ll need, but some may require a 10mm socket setup too.
(Hopefully) A new lower steering shroud, one to fit round the cruise control stalk.
Only go ahead with this if you’re confident; I don’t want to hear any stories of Stilos not starting after this. Also, you'll read in a few pages about Stilo's that aren't wired up; it has come to my attention that other modifications to the Stilo are required for this to work, and as I do not know the extent, all information here is provided as A BASIS WITH NO GUARANTEE that it'll work!
2.
One little problem . . .
Retrofitting cruise control to the Stilo incurs one problem; the LED on the instrument cluster will NEVER illuminate. From what I understand, the cruise control stalk is wired straight to the Engine Node (hence it is not placed on the CAN line at the clock spring). When switched ON, the engine node will place a “Cruise Control is ON” message on the CAN network. What would normally happen is the Body Computer would read this, then place a “Switch Cruise LED ON” signal on the CAN, for the instrument cluster to pick up. However, as none of the Stilos without it haven’t had the option programmed into the Body Computer, it will not know what the “Cruise Control ON” signal is, hence never submitting the “Switch Cruise LED ON” signal. This you’re going to have to accept and live with! The Examiner can switch the light on manually by mimicking the “Switch Cruise LED ON” signal though.
3.
Categorisation of your Stilo
Firstly, these instructions are going to be categorised as follows:
- FULLY PREDISPOSED Stilos
- SEMI PREDISPOSED Stilos
- NON-PREDISPOSED Stilos.
To find out which category your Stilo falls in, you must remove the lower steering shroud, which is held on by 3 Allen screws (Size 3 from what I remember). Then, be on the lookout for this connector (it's hanging to the left ):
On mine , it was taped to another loom. If that connector is there, go to page 4. It was believed that Stilos with ESP are pre-wired, however this is not the whole story, as my mum's 1.6 without ESP was wired too. One could speculate that if the vehicle is pre-03 it's wired, but I do not know for definite. If it is not, venture into the engine department. Remove the battery cover (3 M6 bolts, 2 on later vehicles) and look for a Brown connector, as shown below:
If that is there, go to 4. If not, go to 5.
4.
Installation of the Stalk
With the cowling still removed, offer up the stalk to where it should go, and you’ll see that the front of the mount will be passing over a screw on the column stalk. Remove that screw (see first picture). Now, offer it up again, and it’ll click into the back. Replace the screw at the front. Having had another set of column stalks, I also fitted the screw behind (see second picture); it’s not essential but I wanted it done properly.
All this is self-evident when you look at the car. You might need to remove the top shroud to get access; it’s held on by two Allen screws at the top near the steering wheel.
Picture to Come Soon . . .
Once done, connect the stalk to the connector, clip the connector assembly onto the end of the stalk, and replace everything (with the new shroud). Take the car for a spin and notice that you’ll have Cruise (albeit without the light on the dash!).
5.
Wiring from the Brown Connector
With this, you need to take the wiring from this connector , through the bulkhead, then up to the steering column. The pin-to-pin configuration is as follows:
D4B (Brown Connector) ------> H7 (Cruise Control Stalk)
Pin A02 ------> Pin 1 (Green) RESUME
Pin A03 ------> Pin 6 (Orange/White) SPEED -VE
Pin A04 ------> Pin 5 (Orange/Black) SPEED +VE
Pin A05 ------> Pin 4 (Violet) ON/OFF
D4B Connector
H7 Connector
Remember: The pin out diagrams for D4B are for the non-existent connector that would go into D4A (D4A is the one on your car). Although its damned obvious: the row with the wires is obviously Row A, and there is one pin not-connected (A01), then moving along the next 4 are connected, so A06 to A08 are also not connected.
All you need to do then is connect Pin 2 of the Cruise Control Stalk (Blue) to a +12V feed. There is a dedicated feed from the body computer (Pin 17 of of the brown connector), but you could get a generic 12V feed from the battery or somewhere inside the car with an in-line fuse (the fuse rating on the body computer is 7.5A). Pin 3 on H7 is not connected. If you get stuck, see the wiring diagram on the last page.
Now feed the 4-core wire (2 sets of speaker wire would be ideal, just remember which wire is which!) into the bulkhead. One way suggested is as follows:
1. Remove the drivers side A-pillar and locate the bulkhead grommet.
2. Make a hole just large enough for the wire and feed through.
3. Feed the wire (from the engine bay) under the scuttle plate and into the main engine compartment.
4. Wire up to D4A.
5. Inside the car, allow enough length to go past the body computer and up into the steering area.
6. Replace everything!
I’d also wrap it to other looms using black insulating tape for an original look .
It is also a requirement that the brake pedal and clutch pedal switches need to be modified to allow this to work . . . watch this space! (PM me if you're doing it and the information isn't up yet).
6.
Only read this if you’re sure you can’t find the brown connector in the battery box!
What you’ll need to do for this is to take the feed for the 4 cruise feeds (see last section) directly from the engine node.
Once located, you will see the following connector:
The following wires must be connected then fed to the cruise control stalk (see the previous or next page for stalk wiring):
M10-A (Engine Node) ------> H7 (Cruise Control Stalk)
1.2 16V
Pin 58 ------> Pin 4
Pin 41 ------> Pin 1
Pin 08 ------> Pin 5
Pin 09 ------> Pin 6
1.6 16V
Pin 33 ------> Pin 4
Pin 17 ------> Pin 1
Pin 41 ------> Pin 5
Pin 21 ------> Pin 6
1.8 16V
Pin 57 ------> Pin 4
Pin 23 ------> Pin 1
Pin 53 ------> Pin 5
Pin 31 ------> Pin 6
2.4 20V
Pin 10 ------> Pin 4
Pin 42 ------> Pin 1
Pin 58 ------> Pin 5
Pin 43 ------> Pin 6
1.9 JTD
Pin 53 ------> Pin 4
Pin 55 ------> Pin 1
Pin 56 ------> Pin 5
Pin 57 ------> Pin 6
Then, proceed as with the previous page to get the wire into the car, then hook up the +12V feed etc etc. . .
7.
Just incase you want to use another method for switching (someone on the Italian Stilo forum used a Sony joystick!), here is the wiring information:
Pin 1 = Green = Resume
Pin 2 = Blue = +12V feed
Pin 3 = Not Connected
Pin 4 = Violet = ON/OFF Switch
Pin 5 = Orange/Black = Speed +ve
Pin 6 = Orange/White = Speed -ve