Fiat Bravo(a)

[GTI 16V]

Ljudi,
voleo bih da cujem neke vase komentare o ovim Fiatovim modelima.Jeste da nisu u klasi sa ''vecim'' Alfa Romeom i Lanciom, ali mislim da Fiat ipak nije za bacanje.

''Pocasni'' sam vlasnik jednog Fiatovog Brava 1.6 16V sa 103 KS.
Voleo bih da cujem nesto o tuning-u ovog motora, jer sam cuo da to nije pozeljno za ovaj tip motora(sa plasticnom granom).

Kupio sam mu K&N filter,al' mu nisam stavio, jer sam jednom vec imao peh sa njom,.....veprovali ili ne, explodirala je nacisto.

Zeleo bih da cujem Vase komentare na to.

Jos jednom,
unapred hvala svima na odgovorima i pomoci.

Panda

[Sasha]

Pogledaj sta kazu na http://www.carsfromitaly.com/fiat/index.html

1. The engine.

Before modifying the engine it is worthwhile filling it with a good quality synthetic oil and fitting new spark plugs. An engine oil additive may also be used.

The first improvements are relatively simple. The air filter can be replaced for an aftermarket item which will help the engine breathe
more freely, the type which completely replace the original airbox are best, and the exhaust can be replaced for one which will restrict the exit of the gases less. The whole system should be replaced, not just the back box. Stainless steel will last longer, but normal steel with a good coat of heat resistant paint will last a good while.

The most effective modification (short of engine rebuilds!) is probably to replace the electronic control unit (or 'chip'). A variety of these are available, but all should increase the power and improve the driveability. The downside is that these usually cancel the warranty and may affect the durability of the engine, the emissions and the fuel consumption. If one is not available for your specific model it is possible to buy a general one for any car and programme it.

Other things to do should include fitting a cold air intake, a large diameter pipe (minimum 5cm) to provide air from outside the engine bay to the air filter. The exhaust manifold can also be lagged with thermal cloth or tape to keep the exhaust gases hotter (and thus reduce back pressure) and also to keep the underbonnet (and hence intake and fuel) temperatures lower.
The high tension leads can also be replaced with performance ones.

Further modifications require the machining of the cylinder headand/or cylinder block (which will not be dealt with here since it is not normally a DIY job) after which it may be worth fitting an oil cooler. If overheating is a problem due to the increased power output then a small hole can also be drilled through the plate in the thermostat.

Regarding the transmission the main requirement is to uprate the clutch to handle the increase in power and torque achieved though the engine modifications. Friction plates can be purchased with improved materials and heavier duty pressure plates are also available. Whilst doing this it is worthwhile lightening the flywheel.

[Sasha]

2. The brakes.

nitially it is relatively easy to replace the brake discs with drilled and grooved items, and the pads for a harder compound. The latter
should not be too hard (ie no race pads on the road) or they will not function effectively at the normal 'road' operating temperatures. Stainless steel braided flexible hoses will improve the pedal feel and reduce the chance of damage whilst DoT5 fluid (not silicon) will increase the temperature at which it can operate effectively. If the brakes are getting too hot the dustguards can be removed and/or ducts fitted, taking air from behind the front bumper.

If more serious braking is required the next modification would be to increase the disc size. It is possible to use larger discs with a bracket allowing use of the production callipers, or alloy four pot callipers can be fitted. On lower models it is possible to fit HGT brakes which will provide more stopping power.

In order to improve the balance of the car under braking it is desireable to be able to adjust the balance of braking from front to rear (and vice versa). This can be accomplished by fitting a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes, usually in a position so that it can be reached from the drivers seat.

3. The suspension.

The easiest improvement,and the one which will probably bring the single most noticeable change, is to replace the full set of dampers and springs. A variety of kits are available which include four matched dampers and springs. Top adjustable units are compromised, but are good for road and track day cars since it allows the suspension to be adjusted between these two, rather different, requirements. Coil over units add more adjustability and can be purchased outright, or can be made from standard dampers by welding a threaded sleeve to the standard tube.

There are then two other main suspension aims; to reduce the flexiblity in the suspension and to increase the stiffness of the car,
both of which aim at more accurate control of the wheel movement. To reduce the flexibility it is possible to fit nylon bushes instead of the normal production rubber items, or if perfection is desired the suspension can be fitted with metallic bearings (rose joints / rod ends). Spherical bearing top mounts can also be used. To stiffen the car it is most popular to fit strut braces. These can be fitted to the front and rear. For more extreme cases a rollcage can be fitted.....

Into this category also fall the choice of wheels and tyres. With an increase in power it can be necessary to fit larger tyres (thus requiring larger wheels) but the temptation to fit the biggest possible should be resisted. Consideration should be given to fitting a wider tyre on the front (since they provide traction and steering) but keeping the standard, or a wider but not as wide as the front, tyre at the rear. This will improve the balance of the car.

4. other things.

Other modifications worth considering include fitment of a shift light (and rev limiter if there is not one as standard), higher power bulbs in the headlights (if you are going to go faster you need to see further) and installation of a quicker steering rack.

[GTI 16V]

Sasha, hvala puno na odgovoru.Nadam se da ce mi znaciti link koji si ''postavio''.Hval jos jednom

Pozdrav!!!

[Sasha]

Nema na cemu

[kilson]

Hm, mislim da je bolje bilo postaviti temu u "Motor i upravljachka jedinica" gde bi bila "vidljivija" ostalim chlanovima foruma. Sigurno je da imash prostora za tuning, sve zavisi koliko cesh tog prostora pokriti i novcem...

Btw, vozio sam jednog chip-ovanog Fiata Bravo, osnovna razlika izmedju regularnog i ovog sa drugim chip-om je u periodu (subjektivan osecaj) exploatacije, kada je ukljuchen klima uredjaj - raspolozhivost snage ostaje slichna (manje opada) onoj koju si imao pre ukljuchenja iste... Bez klime opet, ponasha se znatno bolje (subjektivan osecaj) i ubrzava za nijansu bolje od stock verzije.

[Deki]

FIAT Bravo 1.6 16v

Pozdrav svima,

Takodje sam vlasnik jednog FIAT Bravo 1.6 16v. Model koji ja imam je SX "Reconvertita" iz 1999 i malo specifican. Fabricki ima sve sto ima i standardan SX osim sto ima kocnice od GT modela tj. ima ventilirajuce diskove i kociona kljesta od 1.8, i ima metalnu ususnu granu.

Posto vidim da ima jos zainteresovanih za K&N, moram da kazem da sam ja montirao K&N (induction kit) 57i i da sam stvarno zadovoljan kako radi. Verovali ili ne cak je i potrosnja goriva manja ?! Zasto, pojma nemam. U svakom slucaju K&N radi ok. Ako nekog zanima kako da namontira "pecurkicu" poslacu fotografiju.

Sto se chip tununga tice nisam siguran da ce to dati zeljane efekte. Naime, problem sa ovim modelom je sto pocinje da "ide" tek na 4000 obrtaja sto je (za moj ukus) prilicno kasno. Tako da ustvari prilikom chipovanja vise treba obratiti paznju na to da se poveca obrtni moment na nizim obrtajima nego na krajnji domet automobila. Nisam siguran da ljudi koji nude chip za ovaj model bas znaju sta on radi.

Ako neko ima neko iskustvo sa chipom za ovaj model voleo bih da ga izlozi javno,ovde.

[civi]

kolko je bio KN,postuj slikice obavezno

[Deki]

Evo i slikice.

[civi]

Hvala za slike i odgovore na pm

[gordi014]

Nađoh na internetu test o Fiatu Bravo(a) na:

http://www.autogodine.hr/rabljeni/2006/01/09/fiat_bravo_1_6_sx_1997_-_130_300_km/

A sada najvažnije: ako birate benzinca, onda svakako izaberite 1.6 16V. Klonite se kao ptičje gripe benzinca 1.4 12V, sa 1369 ccm i 80 KS. Jednostavno, njegova koncepcija nije pogođena. Najviše problema zadaje komplicirani razvodni mehanizam s jednim bregastim vratilom, dvostrukim poluklackalicama i 12 ventila. To se brzo sve 'razšteluje' motor ne izgubi puno na snazi, ali počne u prosjeku trošiti 10-12 litara. Ti motori imaju problema i s pumpom rashladne tekućine i brtvim glave motora, a malo ih prelazi (bez većih problema) više od 150.000 km.

Od dizelaša najbolji je 1.9 td sa 101 KS, ali stare turbodizelaše u pravilu treba izbjegavati (skupi popravci!). Može proći i atmosferski dizelaš 1.9 sa 65 KS, a klonite se dizelaša 1.9 td sa 75 KS, još više nego benzinca 1.4 12V. Posebice su loše bile serije koje su svojedobno uvozili naši taksisti (montirale su se u Turskoj). Taj je motor teško izdržao više od 100.000 km, a veliki su problemi počinjali na 80.000 km.

Mit ili istina ??? Zanimaju me vaša iskustva !?

[Delkan]

Gledao sam Fiate koje su dovozili neki shverceri i skoro ni jedan 1.4 12v nije bio potpuno ispravan.Znam ja da oni u vecini slucajeva nece uzeti tamo extra dobar auto,ali bregasta za 1.4 je uvek bila vrlo trazena roba...
Uglavnom,mnogi stvarno(sa razlogom) beze od tog motora.
Zato su svi 1.6 16v radili odlicno i naravno,na njima je bilo najlepse skidati kilometrazu...

[zzip]

kasnim pola godine, ali eto da dam svoj sud...
vozim bravu iz 97 i do sada NIKAKAV kvar...
redovan servis, ulje na svakih 8000km i to je to...
plastika je stvarno loša i neke dijelove sam već zamijenio...
da ne prepisujem sve tu je i moj kompletan dojam o autu...

http://www.fiatisti.hr/forum/viewtopic.php?t=83

[Nigy]

Iskustvo nekih majstora govore da prakticno NEMA DELA na autu koji ne moze da se pokvari. Bravo(a) je koliko se secam bio cist promasaj fabrike sa teskim ekonomskim posledicama po istu.
Licno sam pratio pricu jednog HGT-a koji se 2 meseca razvlacio po servisu. Vlasnik je 'malo' vozio u crvenom, okrenuo lezaj radilice pa je bilo veselja. Uljna pumpa, balans vratila i jos neke posledice a delove skoro nemoguce naci. Jedan servis specijalizovan samo za Fiata ovaj model prima samo na zamenu ulja.
Zaobici ovaj motor u sirokom luku.

[zzip]

Iskustvo nekih majstora govore da prakticno NEMA DELA na autu koji ne moze da se pokvari. Bravo(a) je koliko se secam bio cist promasaj fabrike sa teskim ekonomskim posledicama po istu.
Licno sam pratio pricu jednog HGT-a koji se 2 meseca razvlacio po servisu. Vlasnik je 'malo' vozio u crvenom, okrenuo lezaj radilice pa je bilo veselja. Uljna pumpa, balans vratila i jos neke posledice a delove skoro nemoguce naci. Jedan servis specijalizovan samo za Fiata ovaj model prima samo na zamenu ulja.
Zaobici ovaj motor u sirokom luku.

jako se loše sjećaš jer je brava dobila nagradu za auto godine 1996 i bila je prodavana preka 200 000 komada tih godina... i zamjenio ih je stilo 2002 godine...

što se tiče gore spomenutog hgt-a ... sve ovisi o tome koliko je malo išao u crveno...
neću se raspravljati, ali činjenice stoje...

jedini motor koji NEVALJA je 1.4 i zato su dijelovi za isti jako traženi...
1.6 i 1.8 su fantastični motori...