Uzemljavanje

[Vocko]

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthre ... post624953 <--- kako napraviti
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22915 <--- komplet koji se vise ne prodaje, ali su spisak + slike vise nego korisni
http://www.flex-innovations.com/mz3_instruct.htm <-- ovi deru, ali je ovde sve objasnjeno sta, kako i gde treba da se poveze u slucaju da na prvom linku nesto nije jasno


Ljubo, imas jos ?

p.s. A cemu sluzi ? Ne trepere svetla, a neki tvrde da su dobili i konjice, u sta licno ne verujem, al' onaj deo sa treperenjem mi se svidja.
Cena u houm-majde varijanti ne bi trebala da bude veca od oko 20-30e, zavisi koliko stedite na materijalu

[JNC]

Ili moze tako sto ces da sredis svoju instalaciju, procitao sam ovo sve i radi samo to da pospajas mase po motoru, sto vec postoji mislim, nije mi uopste jasno sta ovo radi, ako ti je struja ispravna tj. svi spojevi kako treba, ovo ne sluzi nicemu.

[Vocko]

Interesantno je da taj problem sa treperenjem svetala nemam kod dizelke, dok je kod moje ocigledan.
Ista situacija je bila i na BA, ali u znatno manjoj razmeri.

[JNC]

Pa onda je to nesto fabricki lose uzemljenje, iako na onom trecem linku je za 3-ke, a kaze kao auto bolje ide, sto naravno nema nikakve veze, mislim kako moze da ide bolje zbog toga, ovo moze da sluzi ako stavljas neku muziku jacu ili sta vec.

[RedboX]

Nije da ne sluzi nicemu, dobro uzemljenje sa manjim otporom i veceg presek od standardnog pomaze da struja brzo i u dovoljnoj kolicini stigne do potrosaca sto se moze pozitivno odraziti na paljenje, start i ostale elektricne radnje u autu sto moze dovesti do ustede goriva i boljeg rada motora pa odtuda mozda subjektivni osecaj dobijanja konja. Vremenom kontakti usled oksidacije promene elprovodljiva svojstva pa se trosi vise struje za istu stvar. Ja cu ovo definitivno da uradim kod mene, a sto fabrika nije u startu uradili to e hebiga, oni su uradili optimalno a ovo je dodatni plus.
btw Vocko ako radis sa kablovima 4U ili 4AWG po us standardu, a to je nekih 20-ak kvadrata i nesto onda je metar malo skuplji a treba ti minimum 5 metara tako da 20-30 evra ne pije vode. Mada ja pricam o plavim providnim bakarnim kablovima, verovatno ima jeftinije sa obicnom izolacijom.
@losmi sta ce tebi ovo kad ti jos nisi skinuo ni najlone sa sedista ovo je za malo starije automobile

ja imam ovo i par slicica kako je uradjeno

http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/groundwire/

i jedan pdf koji cu da razbijem na teskt i slike pa stavim u sledeci post

[RedboX]

As many of you know, upgrading the "Big 3" wires in your engine compartment can
lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower
resistance are typically:
1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system
So for those of you looking for a cheap and easy way to upgrade your system and help
out your electrical system without adding a high output alternator or an aftermarket
battery, this is the modification for you. If you have heavy dimming or are getting
large voltage drops during loud bass hits, but you don't have the money to spend on a
high output alternator or a battery, upgrading your vehicle's "Big 3" will usually help to
reduce and sometimes even eliminate the problems. So without further ado, the "Big
3" wires are:
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine
Now, I suppose it would help if I explained what each of these wires does, and to do
that I would like to paraphrase an explanation by IMTfox from a while ago: Think of
your vehicle's charging system as two different circuits, one consisting of your amplifier
and your battery, and the other consisting of your alternator and your battery. The
current in your electrical system flows from your positive battery terminal to your amp,
from your amp's ground to the chassis, and then from the chassis back to the negative
battery terminal. But how does it get to the positive terminal in the first place? That's
where the alternator comes in. Current in the second circuit flows from your
alternator's positive post to the battery's positive terminal, then from the battery's
negative terminal to the chassis, and from the chassis back to the block, which
happens to be the grounding point for your alternator.
So, from your battery, you have the power wire going to the power terminal on your
amplifier and then your amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. From here
the current needs a way to get back to the negative battery terminal, and that way is
through the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire. Upgrading this
wire will "upgrade" the circuit between your battery and your amp by giving the
current a larger path to flow through to get back to the battery.
Now, think of your alternator as the battery and your battery as the amp. From the
positive post on your alternator, you have the second of the "Big 3," the alternator
to battery positive wire supplying "power" to your battery. From there the battery, just
like your amp, is grounded to the chassis through the wire mentioned in the previous
paragraph. Again, the current needs a way to get from the chassis back to the
alternator's "negative terminal" and that way is through the last of the "Big 3," the
chassis to engine wire. Since your alternator is most likely mounted to your engine
block using a metal or conductive mounting bracket, you can simply add your new wire
from the chassis to one of the mounting posts for the alternator. Upgrading these two
wires will "upgrade" the circuit between your alternator and your battery, again giving
the current a larger path to flow through.
----------------------------------------------
Now that you understand exactly what the "Big 3" do, it's time to upgrade them to a
larger gauge wire. You can use regular power wire from installing your car audio
equipment, ring terminals, and crimping equipment just the same as you would for any
other install. Let's start with the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis
wire:
1) Disconnect your battery's negative terminal and get the stock wiring out of the way.
You might have to cut it and crimp a new ring terminal onto it. I found it helpful to use
aftermarket battery terminals with multiple ports on them also.
2) Scrape away the paint and drill the hole for your connection of the larger wire, or
connect it to the stock grounding point. Either way you do it, make sure it is bare
chassis metal, not covered by paint, and that the connection is as tight and secure as
possible:



3) Secure the new wire to the chassis and reconnect the vehicle's stock chassis ground,
but DON'T reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal yet! You may find it
helpful to cover the negative battery terminal with a cloth or other non-conductive
material and just lay the terminal on it until you're ready to reconnect it later.
Moving on to the next of the "Big 3," let's upgrade the alternator to battery positive
wire:
4) Locate the vehicle's alternator and look for a terminal post connected to it. The post
shouldn't be hard to find. It should have only one wire connected to it, and it should
lead to the positive terminal on the battery, possibly through the fuse box.



5) Disconnect the stock alternator to battery positive wire from the positive post and
connect it to the post again with the new wire added.
6) Run the wire either through your fuse box if applicable or through a fuse. The fuse
should be sized to match the max ampacity of your wire, not the output
capability of your alternator. As you can see I just went through the fuse box, so
my upgrade is probably not making as much of a difference as it could if it were fused
externally, but my alternator is capable of withstanding the draws anyway so I'm not
particularly worried about it. If I ever begin to see a problem w/ current draws, I will
probably fuse the wire externally with a 300A or so fuse...
7) From the fuse, connect the wire to the positive terminal on your battery, again,
leaving the stock wiring connected when you're done. The picture below shows the
alternator to battery positive wire run from the alternator through my fuse box to the
positive battery terminal.



Last, let's move to the chassis to engine wire: (Again, because your alternator is
grounded to the block, all you need to do is find a bolt somewhere on the block and
connect it to the chassis. The alternator's mounting bracket is usually a good place to
find these bolts).
8) Again, either drill a new hole or connect this wire to the stock chassis ground. From
the chassis ground, run the wire back to one of the mounting posts for the alternator
(or to a bolt on the engine block).



9) That's it! You're done. Reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal and check
out the difference! Below is a shot of the "Big 3" upgraded in my car. The other wire
you see coming out of the battery's positive terminal is obviously my amp's power
wire.



Helpful hints:
1) Leave the stock wiring attached after you're done. Don't replace the stock wiring,
add onto it. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, so replacing the
stock wire will only make more work for yourself.
2) When fusing your alternator to battery positive wire, fuse it toward the battery end
of the wire. As IMTfox points out later in this thread, the battery will explode if it's
overloaded, while the alternator will only burn out its regulator which won't cause
much damage except to the alternator itself. Exploding batteries are no fun!
3) When crimping large gauge terminals for 1/0awg and sometimes even 4awg, a vice
works well. Crimp one side of the terminal at a time, creating an overlapping edge. Put
the boot around this and then wrap it in electrical tape if you want. the most secure
connections will occur in this way.



4) Lastly, prepare all your materials and tools BEFORE you are ready to upgrade. Know
what you are doing before you start so you can be done as quick as possible. The
majority of vehicles have computers that will reset after the battery is disconnected for
a long time and they can cause older vehicles to do strange things if they reset.

p.s. krimpovanje jednog konektora u kanibalu kosta 120 dinara samo ruke.Meni treba minimum 10 konektora tako da.... stega u sake pa prvrci

[Vocko]

A ako nabavim kljesta, hoces da me ljubis ?
I da... Termo buzir je iz raja izasao, ako hoces da promenis boju standardnog kabla

[929hb]

nabrzinu sam procitoa sve postove samo mi malo pojasnite molim jel ovo moze na bilo koji auto (929HB, ili eentualno lada 110)

[Vocko]

Vazi za bilo koji auto, a pretpostavljam i da su mesta kacenja ista.

[JNC]

Pa to i pricam znaci ako ti ovo treba nesto ti nije u redu sa tvojim masama u autu, ako ti zeza auto onda moze da pomogne, ali isto tako sredi svoje i cao.

[929hb]

posto moze da ide na bilo koji auto ovo cu prvo da uradim na mom sluzbenom jugicu.
Samo za pocetak mi pojansite sta je ona sipka od amortizera do amortizera.
jel i to mora.

[Vocko]

To je tzv. koska (na engl. strut bar), to ti ne treba.

[929hb]

e ovako: proucio sam oba teksta o uzemljenju (onaj sa web adresom clubprotege i ovaj na postu) i kao sto sam shvatio radi se o dva razlicita principa uzemljenja:
- prvi od sasije, usis grana, blok/razvodnik, menjac i minus.
- drugi sasija, alternator, osigraci itd.
meni je jednostavniji ovaj prvi, posto u drugom kao osigurac pa akumulator eksplodira drn drn jarinja, pa cu njega da uradim pa sam hteo da Vas pitam:
1 jel se mogu koristiti kao kabli od juga za akumulator (imam tri kompleta) a ako ne koji ali ne po USA standardu.
2. kaji vid papucha, jel moze bakarni a ako ne od kojeg metala.
3. i ono 4-gauge jel to papucha sa mesta za cetiri krampiranja i da moze da se zastrafi jel to??

[RedboX]

osnovni princip je da poboljsas protok struje u el sistemu i time si na dobitku jer ce sve da dobije time i motor i paljenje i porkretanje i ostali uredjaji. ovo nije turbo nos instalacija pa tako dodatnih konja nema samo se radi sredjivanje protoka struje.
e sad hebiga laksi protok struje ipak trazi neke mere opreza pa nije lose imati i dobre osigurace.

ovo 4 gauge se odnosi na taj americki 4 awg sto je po nasem precnik od 5.27mm il presek od toliko na kvadrat iliti oko 20-25 kvadrata.

papucice mozes kakve hoces jedino treba da znas da bakar i aluminijum znaju nekad da imaju hemijske reakcije pa sad se ne secam vise dal dolazi do brze oksidacije spoja ili tako nesto.

sto veci presek to bolje naravno ne preterivati ipak to nije trafo stanica

[amavrenski]

bolje su bakarne papucice naravno. imas da kupis one, sive su boje, a kad zagrebes malo ispod je bakar. ne znam dal su premazane necim ili sta vec, ali te ne oksidiraju, bar ne tako brzo. koriste se u aparatima za varenje, imaju sa rupama od 6-10mm. veroatno postoje i vece ali nemas potrebe za tim.