FIAT 1300

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The following models were produced in each series
Series 1 : from 1974 :
Mirafiori 1297cc (65bhp) & 1585cc (75bhp)(both sohc)
Familiare 1297cc & 1585cc
Abarth 1995cc (140bhp) (dohc)
Series 2 : from 1978 :
Mirafiori 1301cc (65bhp)(sohc)
Supermirafiori 1301cc (78bhp) & 1585cc (96bhp) (both dohc)
Panorama 1301cc & 1585cc
Diesel 1995cc (60bhp) & 2445cc (72bhp)
Racing 1995cc (115bhp) (dohc) (known in the UK as Mirafiori Sport)
Series 3 : from 1981 :
Mirafiori 1367cc (70bhp) & 1585cc (85bhp) (both sohc)
Supermirafiori 1367cc (75bhp), 1585cc (97bhp) & 1995cc (113bhp) (all dohc)
Diesel 1995cc & 2445cc
Panorama 1301cc & 1995cc (petrol), 1995cc & 2445cc (diesel)
Volumetrico Abarth 1995cc (supercharged) (140bhp)

Total production (in Italy) of the 131 was 1,513,800.

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Technical Details

Driveline-longitudinal engine at front with rear wheel drive
Suspension-front : MacPherson strut with telescopic dampers and coil springs plus anti-roll bar rear : live axle with telescopic dampers within coil springs, four forward links and Panhard rod wheelbase : 2490mm front track : MkI :1372mm; MkII & estate 1376mm (Abarth 1460mm) rear track : MkI : 1315mm; MkII & estate 1319mm (Abarth 1456mm)
Brakes-front : discs, diameter 227mm rear : drums, diameter 228mm handbrake operating on the rear via a cable
Gearbox-4 and 5 speed manual 3 speed automatic cable operated clutch
Steering-Rack and pinion 3.4 turns lock to lock

Kerb weight-2 door : 965-975kg 4 door : 985-995kg Supermirafiori 1300/1600 : 1145kg; 2000 : 1175kg; 2500D : 1275kg


Performance

model max speed 0-100km/h standing kmbraking dist from 100km/h
131 1300CL (1301cc sohc) 150 km/h 14.9 sec 36.58 sec 56.2 m
Supermirafiori 1300TC 159 km/h 12.5 sec 34.6 sec 54.2 m
Supermirafiori 1600TC 167 km/h 10.5 sec 32.8 sec 54.2 m
Supermirafiori 2000TC 176 km/h 9.9 sec 31.9 sec 54.9 m
Supermirafiori 2500 D 146 km/h 17.8 sec 38.4 sec 53.5 m

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Tuning

Winning three World Rally Championship titles proved that the 131 was capable of modification to the highest level. Unfortunately for most of us some of the major rallycar modifications are probably out of reach (independant rear suspension, 16V cylinder head, lightweight bodypanels), but there are still a number of effective changes worthwhile.
There are three main areas to concentrate on, the engine (and transmission), the brakes and the suspension and then various other details. These three should be done together since they complement each other, not all of one and none of another !

1. The engine.

Before modifying the engine it is worthwhile filling it with a good quality synthetic oil and fitting new spark plugs. An engine oil additive may also be used.
The first improvements are relatively simple. The air filter can be replaced for an aftermarket item which will help the engine breathe more freely and the exhaust can be replaced for one which will restrict the exit of the gases less.
The main modification (outside of taking the engine apart) is to fit a better carburettor. For the sohc versions, twin downdraught DCNFs are possible, whilst for the twin cams 45 DCOE's are a good choice (40's on a 1600). Downdraught setups are also possible, but the sidedraught one is to be preferred. A camshaft will also provide a noticeable gain, especially if fitted in conjuction with the carburettor.
Other things to do should include fitting a cold air intake, a large diameter pipe (minimum 5cm) to provide air from outside the engine bay to the air filter. The exhaust manifold can also be lagged with thermal cloth or tape to keep the exhaust gases hotter (and thus reduce back pressure) and also to keep the underbonnet (and hence intake and fuel) temperatures lower.
The high tension leads can also be replaced with performance ones.
Further modifications require the machining of the cylinder headand/or cylinder block (which will not be dealt with here since it is not normally a DIY job) after which it may be worth fitting an oil cooler. If overheating is a problem due to the increased power output then a small hole can also be drilled through the plate in the thermostat. There are a multitude of company's with experience of internal cylinder head modifications for the FIAT twin cam engine, and a 1995cc engine with 45 DCOE's and a gasflowed head should produce over 150bhp.
Regarding the transmission the main requirement is to uprate the clutch to handle the increase in power and torque achieved though the engine modifications. Friction plates can be purchased with improved materials and heavier duty pressure plates are also available. Whilst doing this it is worthwhile lightening the flywheel.

2. The brakes.

Initially it is relatively easy to replace the brake discs with drilled and grooved items, and the pads for a harder compound. The latter should not be too hard (ie no race pads on the road) or they will not function effectively at the normal 'road' operating temperatures. Stainless steel braided flexible hoses will improve the pedal feel and reduce the chance of damage whilst DoT5 fluid (not silicon) will increase the temperature at which it can operate effectively. If the brakes are getting too hot the dustguards can be removed and/or ducts fitted, taking air from behind the front bumper.
If more serious braking is required the next modification would be to increase the disc size. It is possible to use larger discs with a bracket allowing use of the production callipers, or alloy four pot callipers can be fitted.
In order to improve the balance of the car under braking it is desireable to be able to adjust the balance of braking from front to rear (and vice versa). This can be accomplished by fitting a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes, usually in a position so that it can be reached from the drivers seat.

3. The suspension.

The easiest improvement,and the one which will probably bring the single most noticeable change, is to replace the dampers and springs. Fitting lowered springs will improve the cornering, but must be fitted together with shortened throw dampers, or else the springs may unseat ! Top adjustable dampers are compromised, but are good for road and track day cars since it allows the suspension to be adjusted between these two, rather different, requirements. Coil over units add more adjustability and can be purchased outright, or can be made from standard dampers by welding a threaded sleeve to the standard tube.
There are then two other main suspension aims; to reduce the flexiblity in the suspension and to increase the stiffness of the car, both of which aim at more accurate control of the wheel movement. To reduce the flexibility it is possible to fit nylon bushes instead of the normal production rubber items, or if perfection is desired the suspension can be fitted with metallic bearings (rose joints / rod ends). Spherical bearing top mounts can also be used. To stiffen the car it is most popular to fit strut braces. These can be fitted to the front and rear. For more extreme cases a rollcage can be fitted.....
Into this category also fall the choice of wheels and tyres. With an increase in power it can be necessary to fit larger tyres (thus requiring larger wheels) but the temptation to fit the biggest possible should be resisted. Consideration should be given to fitting a wider tyre on the rear (since they provide traction) but keeping the standard, or a wider but not as wide as the rear, tyre at the front. This will improve the balance of the car and not make the steering too heavy.

4. other things.

Other modifications worth considering include fitment of a shift light (and rev limiter if there is not one as standard), higher power bulbs in the headlights (if you are going to go faster you need to see further) and installation of a quicker steering rack

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Buying / Selling

131's are now quite rare - most having succumbed to the dreaded tin worm. Those that remain are mostly enthusiasts cars and have thus been well treated. Prices are accordingly higher than 'any old "old car" '. There are still the basics, however, which always apply....
Some tips to do before selling : (they may seem obvious, but most people don't do them and thus are in a weaker bargaining position)
Tidy inside the car thoroughly : hoover the floor, empty all pockets, ashtrays (wash), glove compartment etc..., wipe the trim with a damp cloth, give the cockpit a good airing to get rid of any odours ! Reset the trip meter to 00000 - it is a pleasant (subconcious) surprise.
If the car has been standing give it a good run - this will clear out the engine (reduce exhaust smoke), put a shine on the brake discs and loosen up any joints that may otherwise make some noises.
'Back to black' products are very effective at temporarily restoring bumpers and trim. This makes a big difference to any car. Do it a week before you expect people to view the car, otherwise it may be a bit too obvious !
Jetwash under the car, especially under the engine and in the wheelarches. The prospective buyer may be an enthusiast (particularly likely with the 131), and this makes it easier for them to see what they want to check.
Obviously wash the car and clean the windows !
If you are going to buy a car always check the following :
Firstly check the bodywork. Pay special attention to the wheelarches (inside if there is no plastic splash guard), suspension and engine mounts, sill, door pillars (check for sagging doors), scuttle panel and the floor (doors, bonnet and boot/hatch are also susceptible, but are more easily replaced). If a sunroof is fitted check around the edge for signs of rust. Check that there are no mismatching panels, large areas of discolouration or signs of fresh paint (compare inside the engine bay with the external body colour), all of which probably indicate accident damage.
Check for a damp carpet or the presence of mould - if the carpet is damp then the floor is almost certainly corroded.
Check the main electrical functions - wipers, lights, etc... try putting the main beam and wipers on at the same time. Check the headlight reflectors for rust.
Check the brake pedal does not go to the floor if pressed hard for a long time and check the gearchange for clean engagement.
The engine should be run up to temperature, check the exhaust for smoke, the condition of the breather (look for mayonnaise), the condition of the oil filler cap (again white deposits can indicate head gasket or other serious problems or the use of the car only on short journeys, another bad state of affairs) and the colour of the coolant (preferably not thick or dark brown!). Listen to the noise of the engine, then depress the clutch and engage first gear. Whatever noise has disappeared was coming form the gearbox, what remains is from the engine. Also check the condition of the engine oil on the dipstick.The lighter brown the better, if it is thick black then leave quickly.
Check tyre wear, uneven patterns could imply a bent chassis.
Always take it for a test drive. Check that the car tracks in a straight line with no steering input and also remains straight under braking. Find a large open area and complete several lock to lock turns (also in reverse), listening for any noises. Try the handbrake when moving - seized rear callipers will mean uneven braking or no braking.

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Fiat 132 & Argenta

The 132 was introduced in May 1972 as the replacement for the 125. Featuring either a 1592cc dohc (98bhp) engine or a 1756cc dohc (105bhp) unit, the mechanicals were developments of the earlier cars. A new but conventional three box saloon body was available in two trim levels, 'normale' and 'special', with minor differences. In 1974 the range was slightly revised, there now being two models, the 1600 GLS and the 1800 GLS.
A major facelift was completed in 1977 when, after the demise of the 130, the 132 became the 'flagship' of the Fiat range. Numerous detail changes, such as bumpers, mirrors and trim were accompanied by the replacement of the 1800 by a 1995cc dohc (112bhp) engine and the fitting of drum brakes at the rear. The 1600 continued, albeit in the revised bodyshell.
1978 saw the introduction of the 132 diesel, available with either a 2000 or 2500 engine. These cars are easily recognizable since the bonnet has a bulge to clear the new engines. The following year, at the Frankfurt Motorshow, Fiat unveiled the 132 2000 injection fitted with a Bosch L-Jetronic system and now producing 122bhp.
These various versions soldiered on until 1981 when production of the 132 ceased. The replacement was really a facelifted version and called the Argenta. Now offered with the 1600 and 2000 petrol engines, both injected, and the 2500 diesel engine, the Argenta was also available with a three speed automatic. A carburettored 2000 engine (113bhp) was also fitted for some export markets.
The range was revised in 1983 when 1585cc and 1995cc models were renamed the 100ie and 120ie respectively, the 1995cc carburettor model becoming the '110'. Changes were made to the front suspension, steering and brakes, whilst the 120ie also gained a rear anti-roll bar. Externally the grille, bumpers and wheels changed.
In 1984 there appeared a supercharged Argenta (the Volumex with 135bhp) and a turbo diesel (90bhp). This latter was the first production Fiat to use a turbocharged diesel engine, with a KKK unit providing 0.87 bar of boost. The normally aspirated unit continued to be available.

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Technical Details

Driveline-longitudinal engine at front with rear wheel drive
Engine-132 2.5 diesel : 2445cc (93x90mm) sohc 4 cyl with 72bhp @ 4,200rpm
Suspension-front : independent with telescopic dampers and coil springs rear : live axle with telescopic dampers within coil springs wheelbase : 2557mm (Argenta : 2558mm; from 1983 : 2563mm) track (front/rear) 132 : 1313mm/1321mm (2.5 diesel : 1321mm/1327mm) Argenta : 1321mm/1353mm (fromt 1983 front : 1381mm)
Brakes-front : discs, diameter (all 132 except 2.0) : 227mm; (132 2.0) : 251mm rear : discs, diameter : 227mm; (later drums, diameter : 228mm) handbrake operating on the rear via a cable
Gearbox-4 and 5 speed manual 3 speed automatic cable operated clutch clutch plate diameter : (132 1.6) : 200mm; (132 1.8 & 2.0) : 215mm
Steering-Worm and roller recirculating ball with power assistance on some models 3 turns lock to lock (132)
Kerb weight-132 (1600/1800) : 1070kg 132 (1600/1800 GLS) : 1095kg 132 (2000) : 1140kg 132 (2000 diesel) : 1270kg; (2500 diesel) : 1280kg Argenta (1600) : 1140kg; (2000) : 1190kg

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Technical Details

Driveline-longitudinal engine at front with rear wheel drive
Engine-132 2.5 diesel : 2445cc (93x90mm) sohc 4 cyl with 72bhp @ 4,200rpm
Suspension-front : independent with telescopic dampers and coil springs rear : live axle with telescopic dampers within coil springs wheelbase : 2557mm (Argenta : 2558mm; from 1983 : 2563mm) track (front/rear) 132 : 1313mm/1321mm (2.5 diesel : 1321mm/1327mm) Argenta : 1321mm/1353mm (fromt 1983 front : 1381mm)
Brakes-front : discs, diameter (all 132 except 2.0) : 227mm; (132 2.0) : 251mm rear : discs, diameter : 227mm; (later drums, diameter : 228mm) handbrake operating on the rear via a cable
Gearbox-4 and 5 speed manual 3 speed automatic cable operated clutch clutch plate diameter : (132 1.6) : 200mm; (132 1.8 & 2.0) : 215mm
Steering-Worm and roller recirculating ball with power assistance on some models 3 turns lock to lock (132)
Kerb weight-132 (1600/1800) : 1070kg 132 (1600/1800 GLS) : 1095kg 132 (2000) : 1140kg 132 (2000 diesel) : 1270kg; (2500 diesel) : 1280kg Argenta (1600) : 1140kg; (2000) : 1190kg

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Fiat 8V

The Geneva Motorshow of 1952 saw the launch of a new Fiat, the 'Otto Vu'. A two seat coupe, the 8V was really a statement of what Fiat could do if it wanted to, there being no realistic plans for volume production. The entire car was new, with virtually no parts carried over from another Fiat model (the differential was about the only exception, being from the Campagnola).
The heart of the car was an all new 70 degree 2-litre V8 engine. Designed originally to go in a top-of-the-range 1900, it was destined to be used only in the 8V. Originally with two carburettors and 105bhp it later got three carburettors and 115bhp or even 127bhp in tuned form (higher compression ratio plus other modifications). The resulting top speed of 190km/h was exceptional for its time, and was aided by the very aerodynamic body, developed in a wind tunnel, including features such as rear wheel spats and staggered seating to enable the cockpit to be as narrow as possible. The body was steel, with the panels welded to a tubular chassis. The suspension featured the first use by Fiat of an independent layout on all four wheels with double wishbones, coil springs and telescopic dampers. Many of the casting for the suspension were from light alloy, as were the diff casing and brakes.
The origial design, by Rapi, had two headlights in the wings and two in the grille, but after 34 had been built the design was changed to have both in the wings in a slanted layout. Other carrozzeria also built bodies on the 8V chassis, including Ghia and Siata. In 1954 a version with a fibreglass body was shown.
A total of 114 cars were built until 1954.

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Technical Details

Driveline-longitudinal engine at front rear wheel drive
Engine-1996cc (72x61.3mm) 70° V8 ohv with 105bhp @ 6000rpm or 115bhp @ 6000rpm or 127bhp @ 6600rpm
Suspension-front : Independent with double wishbones, coil springs and telescopic dampers rear : independent with double wishbones, coil springs and telescopic dampers wheelbase : 2400mm track (front/rear) : 1290mm/1290mm
Brakes-drums all round handbrake : transmission band brake
Gearbox-4 speed manual
Steering-Worm and roller
Empty-weight 997kg